Three Numbers to Check Before Buying Knitwear

Two sweaters can both say “100% wool” and differ fivefold in price. The difference usually hides in three numbers.

1. Fibre diameter, in microns

This decides whether it itches. Above 22 micron most people feel prickle against bare skin; below 19.5 micron almost nobody does. Cashmere sits around 14–16. If a product page does not state this figure, it is usually because the figure is not flattering.

2. Gauge, needles per inch

Under 7 gauge is chunky — warm, lofty, quicker to lose shape. 12 gauge is the common fine-knit range: crisp and good for layering. Above 16 gauge is very light, for early spring and autumn.

3. Weight

At the same gauge, more grams means more yarn and a denser fabric. A size M fine-gauge wool sweater at 280g or more is substantial; under 200g will feel noticeably thin.

Testing for pilling

Rub the cuff briskly with your palm about ten times. Good long-staple yarn barely changes. Short-staple yarn fuzzes immediately. This tells you more than the label does.

Care

Wool is not damaged by water. It is damaged by water plus agitation plus temperature change, all at once. Cold soak, gentle press, dry flat — kinder to the handle than dry cleaning.